Back home, back at it! Gabriel here, writing sozinho (alone). Apologies to everyone for the delay in any blogging/uploading over the last three weeks or so. It’s been a crazy time trying to get readjusted to the U.S. Immediately after returning, I launched another new project I’m creating, this time a new latin-inspired inter-galactic band called GGH and the People of Earth. We had rehearsal less than 24 hours after I got of the plane, so my brain temporarily left the world of Brasil and headed to Cuba :))) More about that project in later posts.
We’ll upload more pictures and video of our time in Rio in the coming weeks. But here’s some more of our story since we last left off:
After we left Salvador on 9/15 we spent four incredible days in Rio. We tried to find as many musical activities as we could. We saw two different Samba de Roda groups and learned the basics of Forro dancing. However, four days wasn’t enough to make contacts and friends in order to discover where the real music scene was in Rio, so we ended up doing some touristic stuff along the way. We climbed (er, drove...) up to see the Christ Statue, hiked up Pao d’Azucar, and spent a minute on the Copacabana beach. For me, the highlight of our time in Rio was the day we visited Afro-Reggae, a social music program located in one of Rio’s favelas.
Afro-Reggae was created in the early 90’s by a non-musician who wanted to start a percussion class for kids living in the rough favela of Vergais-Geral. Over the years the organization became famous within Brasil and now has a variety of professional groups that tour the world. Our experience visiting Afro-Reggae was reminiscent of our time in Salvador. In Salvador, we‘d cold call an organization, arrange a visit, be welcomed with open arms by the members of said organization, spend at least a full day visiting, and leave with about 20 new friends. The same thing happened at Afro-Reggae. As soon as we got there, the receptionist welcomed us and began a tour that lasted 5 hours!!! She showed us the facilities, which include a professional recording studio, a dance rehearsal space, many, many music rooms, and rooms for kids to play games and sports in. Afro-Reggae also boasts an out door courtyard space where they can perform for the community. To top it off (literally) you can see the building from a mile away because on there is a giant silver sculpture of a fist (think 1968 olympic salute) attached to the roof. When we arrived it was still too early for lesson observation but after couple hours the mind-blowing experience of watching little kids playing the butts off that we got so used to feeling in Salvador began, only this time it was Rio style.
The first group we observed was a rock band, aged 15-20. As one of the members of the group explained before they began playing, the group was created 10 years ago because the teachers felt that the students in the favela didn’t have any chances to play music other than the traditional Brazilian styles of pagode, samba, and funk. So they started a rock band for the kids in the favela to provide a different musical perspective. Rock has always been huge in Brasil, and while we were in town the massive Rock in Rio festival was happening. We didn’t go, unfortunately. I’m going to post videos of this band, because it was something else, for real, no joke. They rehearse everyday, for a long, long time, and boy does it show in their playing! Not only was the music tight and accurate, but they put on a show just like they were rockstars, compete with stage dives!!!! Also, they had Brazilian percussion infused in the music, reminding us yet again, about how pervasive and ubiquitous Afro-Brazilian percussion is .
Next, we observed a samba rehearsal for little kids. I was dying to hear the differences between Rio samba and Salvador samba, and knew that even though it was going to be played by kids, it’d be the real thing. The only problem was, when our guide took us to find the rehearsal the teacher explained to us that only two kids had shown up, so they were going to start late. We took off to grab a bite, and when we returned couldn’t find anyone, teacher or student. We spent the next 20 minutes prowling through the favela trying to find the rehearsal. That was actually really cool, because after seeing so many movies about Rio favelas it was kind of thrilling to be smack dab in one. (There are certain details that I’d like to share about the experience, but don’t want them sitting on the internet, so message me or call me if you want to hear some other stories) Anyway, turns out, they were rehearsing in one of the far reaches of the favela, where more of the kids lived. Two students had now grown to 15, and the rehearsal was in full swing. It was a hilarious scene, because right next to where the kids were playing was a horse, a few chickens, and a ram digging through some trash piles. I had to pinch myself, because it was such a hilariously perfect scene. I wanted to film and photograph but my guide explained that certain people in the community might have a problem with that and a potential dangerous situation could ensue. So I kept my camera to myself. I ended up banging a little solo out on a repique and before I knew it I was standing next to the goats and the chickens drumming along with the kids. Once the mosquitos got too bad we called it a day and went back to Afro-Reggae’s base. I owe a debt of gratitude to Wallace, the drum instructor for welcoming me into his classroom (can you call a dirt road a classroom? In Brazil, why not?)
The experience in Rio’s Afro-Reggae brought me right back to Salvador. Once again we were observing Afro-Brasilian culture, born in areas riddled with countless obstacles, from violence, to racism, to poverty, being used to provide the community with a chance to create, inspire, and celebrate. Afro-Reggae, like Ile Aiye, Olodum, NEOJIBA, and so many other programs has given Brasilians the opportunity to see the world, share their culture, and celebrate their heritage.
Last week was my first full week back in the U.S. after our almost 6 week journey through Brasil ended. By the time I got on the plane to come home I felt ready to return to the U.S. All the inspiration both musically and ideologically had me chompin’ at the bit to get our project up and running back home. Brad and I have so much more work to do as we figure out what Drumming for Social Change can really mean for our community. But it’s exciting work, and I’m happy to be doing it. In the coming months we’ll continue blogging as well as fulfilling our promises from our fundraising campaign.
What I’m discovering through this process is that in the end, this project is about us finding our place within our community as well as understanding who and where our community is. At this point, almost two weeks back home, I have an aching spot in my heart for Brasil. I guess that’s what the Portuguese word saudades means...I know that Brasil is now part of my community and that I have been forever changed by the music, culture, and most of all people I met and lived with there.
As I begin digesting the music we learned in Salvador, watching our lesson tapes, listening to recordings, and practicing, I am constantly searching for ways to translate the music and culture of Brasil so that I can share it with my students, friends, and colleagues. Already last week, as I began a new year teaching for the Philadelphia Orchestra, my newly acquired Brasilian insights surfaced, as I taught second graders what a Roda is, and how to properly pronounce pandeiro. This week, I think we’ll learn a little bit about Ijexa- a tradition imbedded within Candomble. I’m really excited to began passing rhythms, language, and culture on, and will always have nothing but gratitude for the people that continue to believe in this project, or rather journey, and have made all of this possible. Until next time...
